Puri Travel Guide: The Last Hippie Beach Town of India (And Why You Should Visit Now)
- Budget Nomad
- Apr 17
- 5 min read
Looking for a beach destination in India that’s off the beaten path, rich in tradition, and budget-friendly? Welcome to Puri—India’s last true hippie beach town.
Situated on the eastern coast of India in the state of Odisha, Puri is best known for its sacred Jagannath Temple and its long stretches of sand lining the Bay of Bengal. But there’s more to this town than temples and tides—there’s art, culture, history, and a living legacy of 1970s backpacker wanderlust that still clings to the salty air.
In this travel guide, I’ll walk you through everything I experienced during my journey through Puri: from local fishing villages and rugged beaches to hidden art villages and spiritual landmarks. Whether you're a backpacker, slow traveler, or simply someone looking for a slice of authentic India, Puri might just surprise you.
Where Is Puri and How to Get There?
Puri is located about 60 km from Bhubaneswar, the capital of Odisha. It's easily reachable by train, bus, or taxi from major cities like Kolkata (about 9 hours by train), making it a convenient and affordable coastal escape.
By Train: Regular services from Kolkata and Bhubaneswar. Puri has its own railway station.
By Bus: Frequent local buses and private coaches from Bhubaneswar.
By Air: Fly into Biju Patnaik International Airport (BBI) in Bhubaneswar and take a 1.5-hour taxi or bus to Puri.
The Vibe: A Hippie Town That Time Forgot
If Goa is India’s party beach scene, Puri is its introspective cousin. In the 1970s, it was one of the main stops on the Hippie Trail, and it still retains that laid-back, artsy, and spiritual atmosphere.
When I arrived, most of the travelers I saw were in their 50s, 60s, and 70s—likely the same people who discovered Puri decades ago and have continued to return. Some even live here part of the year. It’s a nostalgic place that draws those who want peace, not parties.
Exploring the Beaches of Puri: Which Side Is Better?
Puri's beach stretches for miles along the Bay of Bengal, but where you go really matters.
✅ East Side (Budget Nomad’s Pick)
This is the side closest to the fishing village, dotted with smaller guesthouses, hostels, and budget lodges. It’s rough, raw, and real. The sand isn’t pristine, but it has character—and if you walk far enough, you’ll find your own quiet stretch.
This side is also where I made a new furry friend—a beach dog who decided to accompany me on my wanderings.
✅ West Side (Cleaner, Touristy Side)
This is where wealthier Indian tourists stay. The beach is flatter, cleaner, and more organized, but many hotels here don’t accept foreigners. If you want the Instagram-perfect beach photo, walk west for cleaner sand and fewer fishing nets.
Budget Nomad Tip: When you reach the water, turn right. The beach improves dramatically in that direction—flatter, cleaner, and quieter.
Things to Do in Puri (Beyond the Beach)
🎨 Visit Raghurajpur Heritage Village: A Living Art Museum
If you're into authentic Indian handicrafts, make time to visit Raghurajpur, a traditional artisan village about 12 km from Puri. This is the home of Pattachitra, a 1,000-year-old style of painting done with natural dyes on cloth, palm leaves, or wood.
How to Get There:
By Tuk-Tuk: ₹600 round trip
By Bus + Walk: Take a local bus towards Bhubaneswar, get off near Chandanpur, and walk 1 km. Total cost: ₹140 round trip.
I met an artist who began painting at just four years old. His precision and storytelling through brush and dye were mesmerizing. A single piece can take 3–5 days to complete, and prices range from ₹3,000 to ₹8,000 depending on detail and size.
Why it matters: Buying directly from artists supports their livelihoods and keeps these ancient traditions alive.
🐟 Witness Traditional Fishing in Action
One of my favorite early morning experiences was watching the local fishermen launch their boats into the sea. These are no fancy speedboats—they’re hand-built, heavy, and require the full strength of a team to push into the crashing waves.
The east end of the beach near the fishing village is the best place to witness this. You’ll see nets drying on the sand, crabs scuttling around your feet, and people mending boats by hand. It’s a look at India’s coastal community life, unchanged by time.
🔥 Discover Traditional Brick Kilns
On my walk through the countryside near Raghurajpur, I stumbled upon a working brick kiln. Workers stacked wet clay bricks in massive towers, inserted coal, and sealed the whole thing before firing it. The process was primitive, but effective—and it’s how much of rural India still builds its homes.
Not many tourists get to see this. It was one of those unexpected, authentic moments that make slow travel so rewarding.
🛕 Visit Jagannath Temple (Even If You're Not Allowed Inside)
The Jagannath Temple is the spiritual heart of Puri and one of the four sacred Char Dham pilgrimage sites for Hindus. It’s over 800 years old and attracts millions of devotees each year.
Note: Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple, but you can find viewpoints nearby for a glimpse of the spire and inner sanctum. Lonely Planet lists a rooftop view that charges a small fee, though it can be tricky to find.
Even from outside, you’ll feel the intensity of the devotion and the energy of the crowds. The temple complex is surrounded by markets selling sweets, offerings, and religious souvenirs.
Where to Stay in Puri (For Backpackers and Budget Travelers)
If you're a foreign traveler or digital nomad, your best bet is the Chakratirtha Road area near the eastern end of the beach. Here you’ll find:
Budget guesthouses
Yoga retreats
Cheap local food (try thalis and street-side chai!)
Proximity to the fishing village and creative community
Wi-Fi can be hit or miss, but some guesthouses now cater to long-stay travelers and remote workers.
Is Puri Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. Puri is not polished. It’s not mainstream. But that’s exactly what makes it special.
It’s a town where you can:
Eat fresh seafood with your feet in the sand
Watch centuries-old art being created before your eyes
Join a morning beach yoga session or talk philosophy with aging hippies
Witness devotion that feels older than time
If you're the kind of traveler who values authenticity, culture, and slow living, Puri should be on your India itinerary. It’s a perfect stop between the chaos of Kolkata and the serenity of South India.
Final Thoughts from Budget Nomad
Puri isn’t for everyone. But for those who travel not just to see places, but to feel them—to connect with people, traditions, and stories—Puri is unforgettable.
So if you’re planning a budget trip through India, give Puri a few days. You’ll leave with a story worth telling—and maybe a painting or two.
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